When is Pizza More than Just Pizza? - theHumm November 2016

By Sebastian Weetabix

The selection of establishments and topics for this column is somewhat random and often prompted by informants. In general, Weetabix knows what to expect of an establishment and is happy to explore various aspects of its offerings. We report on both opinion and experience. Tips from reliable informants are followed up and so, having heard that there is something interesting about Pizza-Ria Unlimited in Almonte, we stopped in for what was intended to be a quick lunch. Truth be told, the rumour of Indian food as a sideline of a pizza joint intrigued us and raised a number of questions such as: “Why?”… and “What?”… and “Why?” Weetabix is a serious fan of Indian cuisine and has had the pleasure of dining in some truly outstanding establishments. Our expectations were modest and were completely wrong. We were and remain impressed and delighted by GREAT FOOD.

Operating in quasi stealth mode under the camouflage of pizza is the kernel of what may become a truly fine “destination restaurant”. The food is extraordinary and, while the menu is short, the items sampled easily qualify for the top echelon of Indian food offerings in the greater Ottawa area. Chef Roopesh Kakkat (Roop) and his partner Shinu Unnikrishnan (Shinu) are not amateurs, and the menu is well thought out. But first, a few words about pizza.

Unable to resist, we did have a slice of the “meat lovers” special while waiting for our order to be prepared. It really is excellent. Pizza is not generally classified as gourmet food, but these guys have elevated it with a fusion of Indian and Italian themes. Butter Chicken Pizza, Chicken Bollywood and, yes, even a Donair Pizza, compete to be your new favourite flavour combination and, truth be told, Weetabix made a repeat visit for pizza as a matter of diligence. Our efforts on behalf of our readers extend to gluttonous self-sacrifice! Do not miss the ribs and wings either (we didn’t!). Wings are baked (not deep-fried) and enhanced by a superbly flavoured sauce.

There is a small seating area, but at this stage in the restaurant’s development, we recommend take-out. On the other hand, even the loud equipment noise from the open kitchen and the spartan ambience should not discourage one from enjoying the food. And enjoy it you will. Chef Roop prepares everything to order and can tailor spicing to your tastes — his Indian food is not about sweat-inducing heat; it is about the subtle and complex palette of a deep culinary tradition developed over centuries of cultural cross-pollination. Knowledgeable preparation and impeccable tasting skills combine quality ingredients to produce results that distinguish a true culinary talent from mere cooking.

Anybody with reasonable dexterity, patience and the ability to follow instructions can cook. With a bit of practice, reasonable or even very good results can be achieved at home. Doing it in a restaurant setting requires a completely different set of skills, and any decent restaurant relies on a level of professional skill that is daunting to those of us who fancy ourselves as good cooks (Weetabix is one such). Excellence and innovation in cuisine are as rare as in any other field. Truly outstanding chefs are rightly celebrated for their achievements. They are as unusual as their offerings and have many routes to success. After learning to cook at his mother’s side, Roopesh Kakkat received rigorous formal training at Welcomgroup Graduate School of Hotel Administration (in Manipal, India) and has both a degree in hotel management and the prestigious Red Seal Certification as a Chef. From 2005 through 2015 he held positions in restaurant management at numerous hotels and travelled widely as a senior member of the culinary staff on two cruise ships. He met Shinu in India, and they both came to Canada in 2010, where their paths diverged for a while. Then, earlier this year they decided to return to the Ottawa Valley. After looking for premises that were already set up for restaurant operations, they leased a spot on Bridge Street, across from the Old Town Hall. Weetabix thinks this is a stroke of good luck for Almonte.

Indian cuisine is highly evolved and subtly incorporates multiple historical influences. It also adapts and contributes to other culinary styles; even the French with their deep tradition of classical European style have adapted and co-opted elements from the Indian syllabus. Tradition-bound as they sometimes appear (especially in matters of food), the English have also taken to Indian cuisine. So it was somewhat surprising to Weetabix that there was no Indian restaurant in Humm territory, despite several restaurants offering some quite nice curries and related dishes. This gap has now been filled, and not just with another steam-table of what we have come to recognize as the stereotypical Indian buffet (if you are already familiar with Indian restaurants in the Ottawa area, you know what we mean).

Chef Roop cooks to order and has an evident mastery of the subtleties of spicing. We ordered two dishes on our initial investigative visit (follow-up visits are required and anticipated eagerly): a beef korma and a chicken vindaloo, both standard offerings in Indian restaurants. There was nothing “standard” in the food that was presented. Starting with the side dishes — each plate came with a generous bowl of the main offering and a side of rice and naan (an Indian flatbread). The rice was delicately and wonderfully flavoured with a complex mixture of spices — visual interest was contributed by black cumin seeds, and the rice itself was cooked to perfection. The naan was soft, buttery and warm. As for the dishes themselves, both were outstanding — among the best Weetabix has encountered in years of enjoying Indian food. We are comfortable in stating that if this quality of food is maintained, Chef Roop has a base from which a notable restaurant can develop. It is early days and there are many risks in growing a restaurant business, but spectacularly good food, determination and knowledge of the business are good starting points.

Restaurants seldom operate in stealth mode, but this is a new business for a new market. Chef Roop and Shinu are ambitious and mindful of the imperatives of business. The first imperative is positive cash flow, and the Pizza-ria formula of an excellent product combined with aggressive pricing and an unusual strategy (toppings are included and delivery is free) has demonstrated its capability to generate profitable sales. The hidden gem, an outstanding Indian restaurant, is still developing. Gem-quality crystals grow in geological time. We expect that the development of Chef Roop’s vision will be much faster.

So, dear reader — it is now within your grasp to do well by doing good. Treat yourself to Indian food or order a great pizza and you can reap an immediate gustatory reward while contributing to the growth of this enterprise. Word of mouth is, literally and ultimately, the key to success in the food business. Weetabix is seldom as enthusiastic about the prospects of a food establishment, as evidenced by this article. We are convinced that the potential is there and look forward to making a personal contribution to its development through our custom. Go soon and often!

Disclaimer: Neither Weetabix nor any affiliates of Weetabix have any financial interest in Pizza-Ria Unlimited.

Wendy Southin — Altering the Definition of Jewellery - theHumm November 2016

By Sally Hansen

Art… and Soul

The human penchant for jewellery/jewellery (either is correct spelling in Canada) literally knows no beginning and it certainly isn’t coming to an end. A quote from ...more

The Mudds Present Mary Poppins (& Bert Too!) - theHumm November 2016

They’re baaaack! Last seen as adversaries in the comical courtroom musical The People vs Mona — as well as the dysfunctional King and Queen in Once Upon a Mattress; rekindling childhood romance o......

When is Pizza More than Just Pizza? - theHumm November 2016